Istanbul: Where East Meets West - A Complete Guide

Istanbul Basics: What You Need to Know

Get oriented first:

Geography and neighborhoods:

European Side (West):

Historic Peninsula (Sultanahmet):

• Main tourist attractions (Hagia Sophia, Blue Mosque, Topkapi Palace)
• Old City, Byzantine/Ottoman heart
• Where most first-timers stay

Beyoğlu/Taksim:

• Modern Istanbul (shopping, nightlife, restaurants)
• Istiklal Street (pedestrian avenue)
• Galata Tower

Beşiktaş/Ortaköy:

• Bosphorus palaces
• Trendy cafés, nightlife
• Dolmabahçe Palace

Asian Side (East):

Kadıköy:

• Hip neighborhood, local vibe
• Best food scene
• Ferry connection from Europe

Üsküdar:

• Conservative, traditional
• Beautiful mosques
• Maiden's Tower views

How many days you need:

3 days: Major highlights only (rushed) 4-5 days: Comfortable pace, main sights + some neighborhoods 7+ days: Deep exploration, day trips

This guide assumes 4-5 days

When to visit:

Best: April-May, September-October (mild weather, fewer crowds) Summer (June-August): Hot (30-35°C/86-95°F), very crowded, expensive Winter (December-February): Cold, rainy, but fewer tourists, cheaper

Ramadan: Restaurants closed during day, different experience (check dates)

Getting around:

Istanbulkart (essential):

• Rechargeable transit card (tram, metro, ferry, bus)
• Buy at airport or major stations (₺50 card + credit)
• Rides: ₺15-20 (much cheaper than cash)

Transportation:

• Tram (T1): Connects Historic Peninsula to Beyoğlu
• Ferry: Most scenic, connects Europe-Asia (₺15, use Istanbulkart)
• Metro: Modern, expanding network
• Taxi/Uber: Available but traffic nightmare in center, use for short trips only

Walk + ferry + tram = best combination

Language and culture:

Language:

• Turkish spoken (not Arabic!)
• English widely spoken in tourist areas
• Learn basics: Merhaba (hello), Teşekkür ederim (thank you), Lütfen (please)

Culture:

• Conservative country (dress modestly for mosques—cover shoulders, knees; women bring scarf for head)
• Shoes off before entering mosques
• Friday is holy day (mosques crowded for noon prayer)
• Bargaining expected in bazaars (not stores)
• Tipping: 10-15% in restaurants

Must-See Landmarks

The iconic sights:

1. Hagia Sophia (Ayasofya) ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• Built 537 AD as Byzantine cathedral
• Became mosque 1453 (Ottoman conquest)
• Museum 1935-2020, now mosque again
• Architectural marvel—massive dome, stunning mosaics

Visit strategy:

• Free admission (it's a mosque now)
• Go early (8-9 AM) or late afternoon (4-5 PM) to avoid crowds
• Women: Bring scarf for head covering
• Remove shoes before entering
• Modest dress required

What to see:

• Massive dome (feels like it's floating)
• Byzantine mosaics (Christian imagery partially visible)
• Imperial Door, Marble columns
• Upper gallery (if open—best mosaic views)

Time needed: 1-1.5 hours

2. Blue Mosque (Sultan Ahmed Mosque) ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• Built 1616, still active mosque
• Famous for blue Iznik tiles (inside)
• Six minarets (rare)

Visit strategy:

• Free admission
• Closed during prayer times (5x daily, 30-45 min each)
• Best visit: Between prayers (check schedule at entrance)
• Same dress code as Hagia Sophia
• Often long lines—go early or late

What to see:

• Interior blue tiles (20,000+ tiles)
• Massive chandelier
• Courtyard (peaceful)

Time needed: 45 minutes

Pro tip: Visit Hagia Sophia and Blue Mosque same morning (they're across from each other)

3. Topkapi Palace ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• Ottoman sultans' palace (1465-1856)
• Treasury, Harem, Imperial kitchens
• Stunning Bosphorus views

Visit strategy:

• ₺650 entrance + ₺400 Harem (worth it!)
• Go when it opens (9 AM) or after 2 PM
• Closed Tuesdays
• Audio guide helpful (₺100 or use app)

Must-see sections:

• Harem: Where sultans' families lived (fascinating)
• Treasury: Topkapi Dagger, Spoonmaker's Diamond, emerald treasures
• Imperial Council Hall
• Courtyards and gardens (bring water, lots of walking)

Time needed: 2.5-3 hours (with Harem)

4. Basilica Cistern ⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• Underground Byzantine water reservoir (532 AD)
• Eerie, beautiful—336 marble columns
• Featured in James Bond film

Visit strategy:

• ₺450 entrance
• Can get crowded (go early or late)
• Cool refuge on hot days

What to see:

• Medusa head columns (upside-down, sideways—mystery why)
• Atmospheric lighting, dripping water
• Recently renovated with walking platforms

Time needed: 30-45 minutes

5. Grand Bazaar (Kapalıçarşı) ⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• One of world's largest covered markets (1455)
• 4,000+ shops, 61 streets
• Overwhelming sensory experience

Visit strategy:

• Free entry (shops expect you to buy)
• Open Monday-Saturday, 9 AM-7 PM (closed Sundays)
• Go in morning (less crowded, shopkeepers fresh)
• Bargaining essential: Start 50% below asking price

What to buy:

• Turkish carpets (quality varies—beware scams)
• Ceramics, evil eye charms
• Spices, Turkish delight
• Leather goods

What to avoid:

• "Authentic ancient" coins (all fake)
• First price offered (always negotiate)

Time needed: 1.5-2 hours (can spend all day)

Pro tip: Get "lost" intentionally—best discoveries off main lanes

6. Spice Bazaar (Egyptian Bazaar) ⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• Smaller, more manageable than Grand Bazaar
• Spices, dried fruits, nuts, sweets, teas

Visit strategy:

• Free entry
• Less aggressive sellers than Grand Bazaar
• Great for souvenirs (saffron, Turkish tea, lokum)

What to buy:

• Spices (cheaper than home, fresher)
• Turkish delight (try before buying)
• Apple tea, pomegranate tea
• Dried fruits, nuts

Time needed: 45 minutes - 1 hour

7. Bosphorus Cruise ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• Boat ride on strait separating Europe/Asia
• See palaces, fortresses, waterfront mansions

Options:

Public ferry (best value):

• ₺50-100 round trip
• Longer route (6 hours round trip) or shorter (2 hours)
• Departs from Eminönü
• Bring snacks, drinks (limited on board)

Private tour boat:

• ₺300-500
• 1.5-2 hours, shorter route
• More frequent departures

Sunset cruise:

• Most romantic (book ahead)
• ₺500-800

What you'll see:

• Dolmabahçe Palace (European side)
• Rumeli Fortress
• Bosphorus Bridge
• Waterfront mansions (yalı)
• Maiden's Tower

Pro tip: Public ferry = authentic, cheap, but long. Private boat = faster, convenient.

Hidden Gems & Local Experiences

Beyond the tourist trail:

1. Balat (Colorful neighborhood) ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• Historic Jewish-Greek quarter
• Colorful houses (Instagram-famous)
• Gentrifying but still authentic

What to do:

• Wander narrow streets (amazing photos)
• Visit Bulgarian St. Stephen Church (iron church)
• Cafés in restored Ottoman houses
• Antique shops, street art

How to get there: Tram to Fener, walk 10 min

Time needed: 2-3 hours

2. Istiklal Street & Galata Tower ⭐⭐⭐⭐

Istiklal Street:

• 1.4 km pedestrian avenue (Beyoğlu)
• Shopping, cafés, historic passages
• Vintage tram runs through it
• Street performers, bustling energy

Galata Tower:

• Medieval tower (1348)
• Panoramic views (better than crowded observation decks)
• ₺650 entrance (elevator to top)
• Sunset visit ideal

What to do:

• Walk Istiklal Street end-to-end (30 min)
• Duck into historic passages (Çiçek Pasajı, Atlas Pasajı)
• Coffee at historic cafés
• Climb Galata Tower for views

Time needed: Half day

3. Kadıköy (Asian Side) ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• Istanbul's hippest neighborhood
• Best local food scene
• Away from tourist crowds

What to do:

• Çiya Sofrası: Best authentic Turkish food (₺300-500 per person)
• Kadıköy Market: Fresh produce, cheese, olives
• Moda neighborhood: Seaside walk, trendy cafés
• Street food: Kokoreç, kumru sandwiches

How to get there: Ferry from Eminönü or Karaköy (15-20 min, scenic)

Time needed: Half day to full day

Pro tip: Most tourists skip Asian side—huge mistake!

4. Süleymaniye Mosque ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• Süleyman the Magnificent's mosque (1557)
• Less touristy than Blue Mosque
• Equally stunning, more peaceful

Why visit:

• Architectural masterpiece (Sinan—greatest Ottoman architect)
• Peaceful compared to Blue Mosque
• Cemetery with Süleyman's tomb
• Views over Golden Horn

Visit strategy:

• Free admission
• Same dress code
• Often empty of tourists

Time needed: 45 minutes

5. Prince's Islands (Büyükada) ⭐⭐⭐⭐

What it is:

• Car-free islands (30 min ferry from city)
• Escape Istanbul chaos
• Horse-drawn carriages, Ottoman mansions, beaches

Best for: Day trip if you have 5+ days

How to get there:

• Ferry from Kabataş or Bostancı
• ₺100-150 round trip
• Choose Büyükada (largest, most to do)

What to do:

• Rent bike (₺150/day) or take horse carriage
• Swim at beaches (summer)
• Lunch at seafood restaurant
• Walk to hilltop monastery

Time needed: Full day (6-8 hours)

Where to Eat Like a Local

Skip tourist traps, eat real Turkish food:

Street food (₺50-150):

Must-try:

• Simit: Sesame bread ring (breakfast, ₺15)
• Balık ekmek: Fish sandwich at Eminönü docks (₺80)
• Döner kebab: NOT gyro—Turkish original (₺120-180)
• Kumpir: Giant stuffed baked potato, Ortaköy (₺150)
• Midye dolma: Stuffed mussels (₺10 each—street vendors)

Budget restaurants (₺300-500/person):

Sultanahmet area:

• Sultanahmet Köftecisi: Famous meatballs since 1920
• Hamdi Restaurant: Kebabs with Golden Horn view

Beyoğlu:

• Karaköy Lokantası: Traditional Turkish home cooking
• Dürümzade: Best döner wrap

Kadıköy (Asian side):

• Çiya Sofrası: Authentic Anatolian cuisine (MUST VISIT)

Mid-range (₺800-1,500/person):

Mezes and seafood:

• Karaköy Güllüoğlu: Baklava institution
• Tarihi Karaköy Balıkçısı: Fresh fish, Bosphorus view

Ottoman cuisine:

• Asitane: Historic Ottoman recipes (near Chora Church)

Splurge (₺2,000+/person):

Fine dining:

• Mikla: Rooftop, modern Turkish, stunning views
• Nusr-Et: Famous Salt Bae's steakhouse (overpriced but experience)

Turkish breakfast:

Where: Any neighborhood café (₺250-400)

What you get:

• Cheese (beyaz peynir), olives, tomatoes, cucumbers
• Honey, kaymak (clotted cream), jam
• Eggs (menemen—scrambled with peppers, tomatoes)
• Simit, bread
• Tea (çay—drink constantly)

Turkish breakfast = feast, not quick meal

Sample 4-Day Itinerary

Maximize your time:

Day 1: Historic Peninsula

• Morning: Hagia Sophia + Blue Mosque (8 AM start)
• Lunch: Street food near Sultanahmet
• Afternoon: Topkapi Palace + Harem
• Evening: Basilica Cistern, dinner in Sultanahmet

Day 2: Bazaars & Neighborhoods

• Morning: Grand Bazaar (9 AM when opens)
• Lunch: In Grand Bazaar
• Afternoon: Spice Bazaar, walk to Balat
• Evening: Explore Balat, sunset photos

Day 3: Bosphorus & Beyoğlu

• Morning: Bosphorus ferry cruise
• Lunch: Karaköy or Beşiktaş
• Afternoon: Dolmabahçe Palace (if interested) or walk to Istiklal Street
• Evening: Galata Tower sunset, dinner in Beyoğlu

Day 4: Asian Side

• Morning: Ferry to Kadıköy, explore market
• Lunch: Çiya Sofrası (make reservation)
• Afternoon: Moda neighborhood walk
• Evening: Return to Europe, farewell dinner with Bosphorus view

Practical Tips

Safety:

• Istanbul is generally safe
• Tourist areas heavily policed
• Watch for pickpockets in crowded areas (Grand Bazaar, tram)
• Women: Generally safe solo, but expect attention (catcalling exists)
• Avoid political demonstrations

Scams to avoid:

• Shoe shiners "dropping" brush (leads to overcharge)
• "Free" carpet tea (pressure to buy expensive rug)
• Taxis without meter (always insist on meter—taksimetre)
• Restaurants without posted prices

Money:

• Turkish Lira (₺) - currency fluctuates
• Credit cards widely accepted
• ATMs abundant (use bank ATMs, not standalone)
• Carry cash for street food, bazaars

Tipping:

• Restaurants: 10-15%
• Taxis: Round up
• Hamams: ₺100-200 for attendant

Istanbul offers: European side Historic Peninsula (Hagia Sophia free admission, arrive 8 AM; Blue Mosque between prayer times; Topkapi Palace ₺650 plus ₺400 Harem worth it), Grand Bazaar bargaining (start 50% below asking), Bosphorus cruise (public ferry ₺50-100 best value), Beyoğlu's Istiklal Street and Galata Tower (₺650 sunset views); Asian side Kadıköy (ferry 15 minutes, best authentic food at Çiya Sofrası); hidden gems Balat colorful houses, Süleymaniye Mosque peaceful alternative. Use Istanbulkart transit card, dress modestly for mosques (women bring scarf), avoid taxi scams (insist on meter), eat street food (simit ₺15, balık ekmek ₺80).